On the trail - August 14, 2011

Proposed Title: Fifty-One and Having Fun

“Rocks, trees, wind on our cheeks! the solid earth! the actual world!”

Henry David Thoreau, The Maine Woods

The idea was to spend my birthday hiking and taking pictures of wildflowers in the Wild Basin Area of Rocky Mountain National Park, but after arriving at the park, my plans changed. The Ranger at the entrance station suggested I head away from the crowds of the easy trails and maybe head up to Finch Lake in search of adventure. He mentioned that a bull moose had been spotted in that area and to be on the lookout so that I would live to see another year. He also sang “Happy Birthday” to me, so I figured this guy was good karma and I heeded his advice and headed for the trailhead.

The signpost at the trailhead read “Finch Lake – 5.0 miles”. This fact led me to pause. I was prepared for rain, bugs, and crowds, but I had no food and only a half filled water bottle to tide me over. I looked into the forest where the trail led up and I thought maybe I’ll just go a little ways and see what’s in there. It is then that an elderly couple came down from the trail and mentioned that the trail was too steep for their liking. They had gone maybe a quarter of a mile before turning back. It was almost a challenge. After all, this was my birthday and I wasn’t exactly in an “I’m getting too old to do this” mood. The gauntlet had been thrown down and without a second thought; I began my hike up to Finch Lake.

The uphill hike was strenuous over a rocky trail. The rain held off and the clouds helped to minimize the sweat from the effort. On a warm sunny day, this hike would require a whole lot more water than I was carrying. I was curious to see Finch Lake, but didn’t know if it was a good idea to extend myself with no supplies. I continued up the trail. At the 1.8 mile signpost, I felt pretty good. Only 3.2 miles to go, but what did those miles consist of?

Rock, trees, and no wind on my cheeks was what I saw and felt as I continued up into the forested landscape. I passed through a barren landscape that had burned in 1978. With 2.2 miles to go, I thought I was at the top of somewhere, but it was a false summit and on I continued up into the unknown. I had come this far and was now committed to see Finch Lake.

In the back of my mind was the fact that I had no food and very little water left. I rationalized that I would not need water on the way down. This was doable, just keep going. The trail began to descend and I passed an actual rushing stream of water that lifted my spirits. I was getting closer to the lake.

I then heard a familiar bird call, the shrill of a bald eagle, and suddenly, Finch Lake appeared. I rested a while and soaked up the gorgeous scenery. The wind cooled me off as it blew over the lake. I was content. I had made it. Then, my mind started to play tricks on me with thoughts like hunger, thirst, and 5 miles to go to make it back down.

It wasn’t exactly the Bataan Death March, but I did shuffle my feet a little in a minor delirium state as I made my way down the hill. It had been worth it though. “Rocks, trees, wind on our cheeks!” It was indeed a great day to celebrate life.

On the trail - August 7, 2011

Proposed Title: Mohawk Lakes Trail Shines

Ski resorts make good places for family vacations in the summer. My wife’s brother and his family from Michigan along with his best friend and his family from Utah have joined us a few times now for family vacations at ski resorts in the mountains of Colorado. Last summer, we rendezvoused in Breckenridge, Colorado and it was my job to plan a nice hike that all 10 of us would enjoy. I researched the area and came up with what I thought would be the perfect family hike. My selection was a hike to a lake located at 12,000 feet that all of us could physically and mentally tackle.

The Mohawk Lakes trailhead lies just a few miles out of town south of Breckenridge. I scouted out the first part of the trail early in the vacation with a couple of the sons from the families. This detail is important to note because 7 years earlier, a simple hike on Snowmass Mountain turned into an epic adventure that ended up with a rescue ride from an elderly couple in a Lexus from across the valley. I was looking to redeem my sense of direction and regain a little confidence from the other parents with this scouting trip.

As my brother-in-law once said, “My kids would have followed you to Mexico.” So when we arrived home early from our scouting adventure, they informed me that they had forgotten all about that time in Snowmass. This is a good thing, because there is a certain amount of pressure in being an avid hiking enthusiast. People tend to trust you and rely on your judgment for their family vacation fun. Last year, I was more than up to the challenge.

I decided to scout the second half of the hike by myself. It was a good thing because when I decided to check out the 4-wheel drive alternate route to try and start the hike higher up, I was greeted with a road that took over an hour to go up only 5 miles. If my Jeep was a challenge to maneuver, the Chevy Tahoe rental filled with 10 of us would be impossible. We would be hiking from the start of the trail.

The sweeping vistas that I saw were breathtaking as I hiked up the second part of the hike. I knew it was going to be a memorable hike when my cell phone played the song “Rocky Mountain High” as I received a voice mail while enjoying the view on a steep hillside. Along the way to the top were mining relics and broken down log cabins. Pink elephant flowers lined the high mountain streams and there were waterfalls.

The day came when it was time to put the two halves of the hike together and get the party of 10 up the hill. 3 families from 3 different states present quite a few variables to consider. The kids settled into a medieval jousting pace with sticks serving as swords in their make believe world. “Malrok, swordsmaden of the high pines” battled her way up the mountain. The adults basked in the warm sunshine and enjoyed the refreshing breeze as they too marched up toward the lake.

Mohawk Lake appears like an infinity pool as you arrive at the destination. The Michiganders enjoyed frolicking in the left over snow rimming the lake. We spotted a large trout swimming near the shore and then it was time to descend out of the thin air. The hike down reversed the views and we slowly descended back to reality taking with us memories that will last a lifetime.

On the trail - July 31, 2011

Proposed Title: Teton Treehouse Adventure

One hot, midsummer afternoon in the early 70’s, my friend Russell and I were sitting on a concrete stoop in front of my house staring at the forest preserve across the street. As the dog days of summer were setting in, we found ourselves bored out of our minds. Randomly, an idea popped into my head while gazing at the oak trees across the street. We should build a treehouse.

We selected a dead willow tree stump in my backyard as our project location. We proceeded to build a fortress with discarded building materials. It was to be the place where imagination, creativity, and adventure were encouraged during my youth. So when it came time to select an adventure to help celebrate my 30th birthday, it is no wonder a treehouse would somehow be part of it.

The name caught my eye as I was flipping through a bed & breakfast guide book looking for a place to stay as a base camp for an adventure. I stopped when I saw the name “A Teton Treehouse”. Located in Wilson, Wyoming just outside of Jackson Hole and Grand Teton National Park, this place looked amazing.

Tucked away in the trees on a north facing slope off Heck of a Hill road sits the bed & breakfast named “A Teton Treehouse”. 95 steps made of railroad ties are carved into the hillside and are your first test at aerobic fitness as you make your way up to what could be described as a modern day Robinson and Caruso hideaway. The spirit of the Old West mixed with the solitude of the wind thru the pines immediately begins to melt away the stress in your shoulders as you begin to relax.

The rooms can best be described as sanctuaries of casual elegance. From massive log rafters to downy soft comforters, you feel as though you are tucked away somewhere special. The large windows verify that you are indeed in a treehouse in the trees overlooking Jackson Hole.

With all that said, what really makes the place is the owner, a guy by the name of Denny Becker. Denny originally made a name for himself in the area as a river guide. When it was time to get married and start a family, he built the treehouse. Much like a pioneer would build a log cabin; Denny expanded his creation adding a room here and there until he decided to make it a bed & breakfast. Lucky for us he did.

This base camp for adventure originally served as the launching point of an epic backpacking trip into Grand Teton National Park. I use the word epic not to describe the degree of difficulty of the trip, but the degree of greenhorn that my friend Jim and I displayed. We carried more food and clothing on that trip than the lady from the Titanic. We brazenly shunned Denny’s help when it came to packing for the trip and it cost us big time. One blown out knee and a strained friendship were the result, but we both got over it.

We stayed both before and after the trip at the treehouse. Like all great adventures, we looked forward to, enjoyed, and now remember that trip fondly. After all these years, I remain good friends with Denny Becker. His wisdom about nature and life has been invaluable to me. If you ever get a chance to spend some time in the Jackson Hole area, I highly recommend you spend some time at A Teton Treehouse. It is a memory you will not soon forget.

On the trail - July 24, 2011

Proposed Title: Activate your senses to enjoy hiking more

In our everyday lives, we shield our sanity from the barrage of the information age by tuning out. Since our senses are the banquet at which we feast when it comes to hiking, we need to reactivate them to truly appreciate what nature has to offer.

When we hike, we need to tune into the world around us. What we see, hear, smell, touch, and taste produces the experience. Sometimes it is the little things in nature that make the biggest difference, so tuning into those things can enhance your hiking experience.

If you are one of those people who hike with time goals in mind and have set your sights on conquering the trail, you most likely are going to miss most of the nature “experience” and probably my point as well. Life is a journey, slow down and enjoy the ride. Take time to absorb the natural world around you.

Just last weekend I was hiking with an old friend and his wife when we came upon an aspen tree on the side of the trail that was cheeping. We looked at the tree and saw no birds on its branches. Upon further review, we discovered an adult woodpecker in a hole in the trunk and baby woodpeckers in another hole higher up. Thru-hikers would have probably blown right by and never saw them.

Also last weekend, we were hiking through a wet, marshy portion of the trail and we spotted Pink Elephants. No, we were not under the influence of drugs and alcohol. Pink Elephants are a type of flower that is usually found at a much higher altitude than we were at. If we had just been concentrating on plotting our course out and keeping our feet dry, we would have missed them as well.

As part of our hike last weekend, we heard hummingbirds and never saw them and saw bluebirds that we never heard. We saw wildflowers of almost every color, but really didn’t smell them. We tasted the sandwiches we made for lunch and felt the mountain breeze that cooled us as we walked.

I had hiked this trail by myself years ago. I remember making good time and covering a lot of ground, but that was about it. By slowing down and smelling the roses so to speak, my experience was quite different this time around. As Ferris Buehler once said, “Life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop and take a look around every once in awhile, you might miss something.”

4th of July Memories

The following are my memories from the past half a hundred fourth of July's:

The next door neighbors, the Walbams, having a 4th of July party in their backyard. They had coolers filled with soft drinks like Orange Crush, Grape Crush, and Strawberry Crush. You were welcome to have as many as you wanted. Their daughter Wendy went up on their garage roof to watch the fireworks display in town.

Lighting off snakes and sparklers and punks. One year we lit off road flares and I got asthma from all the smoke.

Sitting at the kitchen table with a whole plate of spinach that my mother told me to eat before I could go out and watch the fireworks. Now you know why I hate vegetables.

Sitting in our car at Glenbrook North High School with a bag of homemade popcorn watching the fireworks until it started to rain.

Watching all the floats go by on Dundee Road in the afternoon after all the parades in the area were finished.

Being in Arlington Stadium in Arlington, Texas watching the Rangers play the Yankees. It was well over 100 degrees. Burt Hooton was the winning pitcher. They played the song Proud to be an American and the whole crowd cheered at the line "across the plains of Texas" as jet fighters flew over the stadium. Huge fireworks display after the game.

Being in Olympia, Washington where it was so cold and rainy that we had a huge bonfire going. The fireworks display was self made by people shooting off their own around a lake. Very Sarah Palin like.

Water balloon fights during the parade in Ouray, Colorado.

An F16 buzzing Main Street in Ouray, Colorado.

Mallory running in races in the park in Ouray, Colorado.

The year the fireworks display in Ouray caught the hillside on fire and they had to cancel the rest of the show.

Driving over Independence Pass near Aspen, Colorado. Then, being on the roof of a restaurant in Aspen watching the fireworks show over Aspen Mountain. Then driving back to Vail with a full moon overhead.

Mallory and Madison throwing popper fireworks at people from the Jeep driving out of Aspen, Colorado.

Watching the fireworks from the Christmas House in Ouray, Colorado as they played the 1812 Overture synchronized to the fireworks

Hiking to Blue Lake in the Rawaah Wilderness near Cameron Pass, Colorado in snow up to my waste. Singing the Star Spangle Banner on the way down until other hikers happen to pass by.

Watching the 4th of July parade in Ouray and then driving home 8 hours to Fort Collins. Ended up watching the fireworks display in Fort Collins by myself from the Colorado State University parking lot.

Watching the fireworks around the area from a church rooftop in Hurst, Texas.

Watching the fireworks display in Austin from Saint Edwards University by myself.

Watching the Shriner's ride their magic carpet cars in circles at the Northbrook, Illinois parade.

Listening to the aspen leaves flutter and the humming birds wings whiz by the window in the early morning in the bed and breakfasts of Ouray, Colorado before the parade.

A clown in the parade in Ouray, Colorado scolding us for shooting a water gun at him. He yelled, "Don't do that you moron, this is makeup!" Really?

I am sure there are more memories...and I'll add them as I remember them...

On the trail - July 17, 2011

Suggested Title: Return to Ice Lake

Seventeen years ago, I came across an article in Reader’s Digest about Ouray, Colorado. I was living in Illinois at the time and when I saw the picture of the town surrounded by towering mountains, I decided right then and there that I had to go. I went in July and stayed at a bed & breakfast called the Damn Yankee where I thumbed through some books on places to hike in the area. One hike in particular caught my eye. It was called Ice Lake.

Situated approximately halfway between Ouray and Silverton, the Ice Lake Trailhead is 5 miles in off the highway in the South Mineral Campground area. The gravel road you have to travel on adds to the adventure as you feel civilization slipping away. Starting at an elevation of around 9,400 feet, the hike is steep in places, but you are rewarded with natural features like towering waterfalls just off the trail. What made this hike so appealing was that Ice Lake sits at 12,262 feet. This I had to see.

When I made it up to the lake, I was rewarded for my effort with a view that reminded me what Ireland must look like. The lake was forest green surrounded by lush green hillsides and marsh marigolds. A lone fisherman was trying his luck on the far side of the lake. Then, tiny snow pellets began to fall, in July. The picture I took of Ice Lake sat on my desk in my office in Chicago to remind me that places like Ice Lake do exist.

Six years later, I returned to the Ice Lake Trailhead. I had purchased some new hiking boots and just wanted to go a few miles on the trail to break them in. I had no food or water, like I said I wasn’t planning on going very far. Well, I met a couple of folks from Arizona on the trail and they were kind enough to give me a candy bar or two and a soft drink and before I knew it, we were at the top again looking at Ice Lake. It takes about 3.5 hours to hike up to ice Lake and a little under 2 hours to hike down.

My wife and I have returned to Ouray many times over the years for their Fourth of July celebration. I have told her about Ice Lake and how cool it is, but we always seem to run out of time on our visit and not get around to hiking to it.

Then, one year we decided to hike it with her daughter. We almost made it to the top before a storm forced us to turn around. My wife and I tried again the next year, but once again a storm forced us to abandon the final part of the hike. That year, we had to take refuge under some bushes and trees and wait out a downpour until we got too cold and had to retreat once again.

The Ice Lake trail is challenging and to miss the weather, you need to start your hike early in the morning before the afternoon thunderstorms and snow showers roll in. You will see beautiful forested landscapes that turn into high alpine vistas as you hike. This classic hike rewards you for all your effort and is one you won’t soon forget.

On the trail - July 10, 2011

Proposed Title: The Spirit Bear of Taggart Lake

My friend Jim and I were hiking in Grand Teton National Park years ago when an elderly couple hid in a bunch of trees and jumped out at us growling like bears. It scared the-you-know-what out of us and at the same time it was hilarious. I thought it was great that they were still having fun, at our expense, at their age. They meant no harm and we talked with them for awhile until a lady, who was as white as a ghost, came running down the trail. All she mumbled as she ran by was that she just saw a bear.

This was ironic indeed. Jim and I decided to go check it out. We scanned the hillsides up and down as we carefully hiked in the direction the lady had just come. Just as I was thinking this lady was also pulling our leg, a cinnamon colored black bear walked down the hill in front of us and proceeded to walk away from us down the trail. I could hardly contain myself as I yelled to Jim to get his camera out and for us to follow it. He looked at me like I was crazy. Follow it?

All I was thinking at the time was that we’ll be careful, keep our distance and watch it. We did just that. The bear made a nice comfy spot in a huckleberry patch and proceeded to enjoy an afternoon snack. Jim and I had binoculars and watched the bear for several minutes. Other hikers walked by and asked what we were looking at. We said, “Oh, there’s just a bear over there eating huckleberries.” They said, “A bear? “

We were quite excited with our bear sighting; in fact it was the highlight of our trip. We decided to call it “The Spirit Bear” as we discussed it that night over beers. Jim and I had backpacked together a decade earlier in Grand Teton and we had returned to relive some memories and make some new ones.

Years later, I took my wife to Jackson Hole to hike in Grand Teton National Park. As we hiked, I told her about all the adventures my friend Jim and I had when we backpacked and hiked in the park. The Spirit Bear came up and I told her that I wished we would catch a glimpse of him or her. As it started to rain, we descended down the Taggart Lake Trail toward the Jenny Lake Ranger Station where there was a store for us to get out of the rain and for her to do a little shopping. As she shopped, I looked around the ranger station where I came upon an article tacked up on the wall. It was an article about the Taggart Lake Bear. This must be the Spirit Bear Jim and I had seen years before.

It was to be one of those stories you wished you never saw. Unfortunately for our spirit bear, it had become too accustomed to humans and had approached some hikers and according to the Park Service had to be euthanized for the safety of the visitors of the park. The rain was not the only thing that dampened my spirit that day.

As I look back on it now, I see a moment frozen in time where a bear sits lazily in the sun munching on huckleberries and I am reminded that life is fragile and we must appreciate the moments of magic to their fullest. The Spirit Bear of Taggart Lake will live on forever in my mind as will that afternoon in the sun so long ago.